Silly fb

 Sådan skulle det se ud når du har lavet: 2 fm sm, 1 fm, 2 fm sm,

 Og så vender man den^^

Og laver 3 fm langs siden (jeg lavede 1 i faktisk det samme maske som den sidste fm leg lavede før jeg vendt det, og så 2 i  den næste hul du kan finde)

Så vender man igen 

Og så hækler man 3 fm 

Santa hat head band

I've been looking for a cute christmas eve dress for tiny E for a while now. I even spent a good while digging deep into google for a pattern for a dress. But really, I couldn't find a single thing that would do the trick. But then isn't that how it always is? I can't help it if I'm stinking picky. Every pattern had it's good points, but there was always something wrong.
So I decided to take all the things that I DID like from those patterns and make my own design. More on that later.
I then decided that I wanted to make a Santa hat for tiny E to wear with the dress. But considering tiny E's disdain for anything hat-like, I had to come up with some sort of compromise. Then I remembered those top hat fascinators that I love so much. I figured, why not just make a tiny Santa hat, a'la top hat fascinator. And that's exactly what I did. Again, apologies for the stupid iPhone pictures. There's never enough light for anything better, and when there is, tiny is crawling all over me a whining for a nap that she ends up refusing to take.
This pattern is written as more of a guideline to how to make it. You need to have a bit of know-how where crochet is concerned otherwise you might get very, very lost. Or maybe I'm just needlessly worrying. Or tired. Probably tired.
But yes. Here you go.

Santa hat:
In red yarn:
Start with a magic circle
r1: ch2, sc 6 inside magic circle. Slst to ch2
r2&3: ch2 sc in each st around. slst to ch2 (6 sc in each row)
r4: ch2, 2sc in each st around (12 sc total) slst to ch2
r5&6: ch2, sc in each st around. slst to ch2 (12 sc total in each row)
r7: ch2, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st. repeat from * around. Slst to ch2 (18 sc total)
r8&9: ch2, sc in each st around slst to ch2 (18 st total)
r10: ch2, *sc in next two st, 2sc in next st. repeat from * around. Slst to ch2 (24 sc total)

r11&12: ch2, sc in each st around. Slst to ch2 (24 st total)
r13: ch2, *sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Slst to ch2 (30 sc total)
r14&15: ch2, sc in each st around. Slst to ch2 (30 st total)
Switch to white yarn
r16. ch3, *dc in next st. Popcorn st in next st. Repeat from * around. Fasten off

Circle base for santa hat:
With white yarn, start with magic circle
r1: ch 2 sc 6 inside magic circle. Slst to ch2
r2: ch 2, 2sc in every st around. slst to ch2  (12 sc total)
r3: ch 2, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Slst to ch2 (18 sc total)
r4: ch 2, *sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Slst to ch2 (24 sc total)
r5: ch 2, *sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Slst to ch2 (30 sc total)
DON'T fasten off

Pompom:
I basically just wrapped a few lengths of white yarn around two fingers, slipped the yarn off, and used a scrap piece of yarn to tie the bundle around the middle (leaving long tails for attaching to the hat), and then cut the loops on either end. I then threaded the tails through the top of the hat and tied them together.

Attach base to hat with slst or sc (when 3/4 of the way around, stuff hat)


Head band:

Ch 62
r1: sc in second ch from hook. *Sk 1 ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk 1 ch, sc in next ch. repeat from * til end. Ch1, and turn piece upside down (so that you are working along the bottom/opposite side of the starting chain) and repeat (work sc's in the same ch space as on the other side of ch, and dc5 in the same spaces as dc5 spaces). Ch1 and slst to very first sc made.

You can attach yarn to edges of headband and tightly chain as many as needed to be able to tie the headband on, or you can attach yarn and braid tie chords, or you could even attach elastic.

All that's left now is to sew the Santa hat to the headband.

Deep dark sea - scallop scarf

It's finally finished.

This might just have been the longest stretch of time I've used on one scarf.
But then, when you come up against a crisis like finding out you don't have enough of a particular exclusive hand painted yarn that is probably now sold out and won't be made again... Think brain fart. Total shut down.
Turns out I was lucky and there was one skein left - scarf now finished. I think it's purdy.

I used this pattern. Just had to build on it as it was only half the length I wanted. There is also only 4 rows of scallops in that pattern, and I needed 12 :-S. But once you get started it's pretty simple figuring out how to keep on adding. At least, I think so.

Hand painted and Daintyloops

Currently obsessed with daintyloops on Etsy. She has some really incredible patterns, for one, but the thing I really, REALLY love is her hand painted yarn. OH.MY.GOD - beautiful.

Just look at those colors.

This makes me want to try my hand at yarn dying. Just... wow. 

Some of the other fantastic things she's got are patterns. I haven't ever seen anything so amazing in my life

All this stuff can be found on her Etsy page (linked at the top of this post)

When you haven't got a ball roller, you gotta get creative. 

This was the genius idea of my darling boyfriend. He'th thmarrrrt :D

(I take all credit for the duct-tape/toilet paper roll, uh, thing)

I'm on a... roll?

Received a request for an infinity scarf a week back and oh dear, did I do a happy dance. I love it when I get a request because that usually means I get to work with some extra quality yarns. This time it was a hand dyed cotton in ALL the fall colors. So much <3. I even bought two skeins (I had been under the impression I'd in fact need much more than two by the end of it) but it turned out that one was exactly enough. The scarf was finished with about 5 cm extra yarn. Just enough to fasten off and weave in. 

So lucky lucky me I have another skein of fabulous hand dyed yarn. Just trying to figure out what I'm going to make with it. I sort of fell in love with the scarf that I made with the other skein, but we'll see. Tedious is a mild word for 50 meters straight of dc's. I wanted to keep it simple though, and just show off the amazing yarn. 

I'm going to have to go for a visit and snap some good shots of the scarf seeing as I was so chuffed to have worked it up so quickly that I wanted to deliver it right away and forgot to even do a final stitch count in case there were more orders for the same scarf, much less remember to take pictures of the final product. *facepalm*

So far this is the only photo I've got. Here it's being worn wrapped three times around. In other words It's three times as long as shown here. I <3 it. Gotta get more pix of it... OOOOR just make another one. 

I think I'll do that. 

Cable Crazy Tube Scarf

I've spent the better part of the last year trying to find the right pattern/yarn/hook combination that would give me the ultimate tube scarf in regards to coziness and warmth.
There's plenty of cozy scarves out there, factory made and stacked high on shelves. They're great, and I may still buy one of those, one day, but I always had the thought in the back of my head that I should be able to make one  - both cheaper, and better. At least, better for me :D.
And here it is.

(this is with the top edge folded over)

This is a *real* tube scarf. Not an infinity scarf. Not a tube-infinity scarf. Just a plain old tube. Tubes are yummy.

Sorry for the phone-pic quality :-S

Hooks used: 15 mm and 10 mm

Yarn used: Super bulky acrylic in black (2 skeins at 120 meters per skein. So 240 meters total)

Stitches used: slst: slip stitch

                     sc: single crochet

                     hdc: half double crochet

                     dc: double crochet

                     fpdc: front post double crochet - yarn over, and insert hook from front to back around the post of the next dc. Yarn over again, and pull yarn back through. (you should have 3 loops on your hook) Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over again and pull through the last two loops.

Special instructions: The piece is started without a base chain. (starting with a base chain can create tension or make the base of the piece tighter than you want it to be) Instead, it is started with a double crochet base chain. You can find instructions on how to do this here

Starting a row without a turning chain: There are a few different methods, but this one looks like it gives the best result.

(work with 15 mm hook unless indicated otherwise)

Row 1: Start with a double crochet base chain 39 dc's long (the first ch3 counts as a dc, making 40 dc total). Bring the beginning of the row around to the end, making sure it's straight, and slst into the top of the beginning ch3. (you now have a loop and can work in rounds)

Row 2: Ch3 and dc in the same loop that the ch3 originates from *OR* start with a starting dc (as linked to above) Fpdc in the next two dc's. *Dc in the next two dc's, fpdc in the next two dc's* repeat from * to * til there is only one stitch left in the round. Dc in that last stitch and then slst to the top of ch3/first dc.

Row 3-6: repeat row 2.

(IMPORTANT: make sure every fpdc you make sits on top of a fpdc of the previous row, and that there is always two dc's between every 2 fpdc's)

Row 7: (switch to 10 mm hook) ch 1, sc in same space. Sc in every stitch around. Slst into back loop of first sc (NOT ch1)

Row 8: (10mm hook) ch2, hdc into same space, hdc around in back loops only. Slst to back loop of first hdc.

Row 9: (switch back to 15mm hook) start with ch3 dc in same space, OR starting dc. Dc around in back loops only (making sure you still have only 40 stitches total, including the ch3-dc/starting dc)

Row 10:  repeat row 2 (making sure your fpdc's are still more or less directly over the fpdc's of previous rows. If they are not, adjust which stitch you start out on: I found while making the scarf that my starting point had moved so that I had to do a starting dc, and then a second dc before going into the two fpdc's. The basic point is making sure the fpdc's always stay in a straight line, directly over each other and that there are always two normal dc's between every set of two fpdc's)

Row 11-14: repeat row 10

Row 15: repeat row 7

Row 16: repeat row 8

Row 17: repeat row 9

Row 18 & 19: repeat row 10

Rows 20, 21, & 22: repeat rows 7, 8, & 9. Fasten off

Final row: turn the piece upside down (you will be working along the bottom edge). Attach the yarn in any chain space from the original double crochet base chain (It's a good idea to attach it just before the beginning/end of the original dc base chain. ) ch 1 and sc in the same space. Sc around. Slst to first sc, fasten off and weave in ends.